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Why Osmo’s Fragrance 2o Initiative Is the Future of Perfumery

Published November 19, 2024
Published November 19, 2024
Ben Hider

When BeautyMatter last caught up with digital olfaction company Osmo, the company had its eyes on scent teleportation. It is currently putting these technologies to the test by using AI to digitize and rematerialize the essence of a plum. Through using a gas chromatography-mass spectrometry machine and headspace analysis, ​​it identified the molecules of the material, which are then uploaded to the cloud and become part of the company’s Principle Odor Map, the AI-driven tool that can predict what a combination of molecules will smell like. The resulting formula is then sent to an Osmo formulation robot that mixes the sample. Some materials are easier to extract than others, with the sulfurs in tropical fruit being one notably difficult example. To date, Osmo possesses the largest AI-compatible scent data bank worldwide, with experiments such as these only expanding that already impressive directory.“Today’s fragrance business is not adapting and evolving far or fast enough to keep pace with conditions that have changed dramatically over the last 100 years. Some fragrance ingredients (usually made by smaller players, in regional brands, but occasionally nationally), are being banned, and some rightfully so. Farmers who manufacture the raw natural materials are being exploited. This will change,” founder and CEO Alex Wiltschko writes in the manifesto accompanying the platform’s launch. Osmo aims to conquer the current secrecy of the industry (partly driven by the desire to protect creations but also businesses) with a five-fold framework that champions transparency, speed, uniqueness, the perfumer at the center of the creation, and clean ingredients.

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